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outdoor @ wolfgang-reinelt.de |
Various Kiwi Tracks, NZ, 2004 |
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This was the only longer trip we did on
the northern island. We did it in three days. The bus brought us from
Taupo to Wakapapa village, where we started and finished the
trip. Honestly, the three hours walk from Whakapapa village to
Mangatepopo hut is not that spectacular, so this is something to cut
(if you have to) - the bus goes to Mangatepopo first anyway to drop
all the day walkers who do the crossing. If you start there, be aware
that you will start with many, many people (and even many more in peak
season). So, starting from Whakapapa is not a bad thing to do. It gives you a chance to get away
from the crowd (and do a complete circuit).
To do the circuit rather than only the crossing is clearly
recommend. You have more possibilities to get away from the millions
of day walkers and can enjoy three very different days in one
trip. Day one gives alpine scenery with the perfect cone of Mt
Ngauruhoe (which also "acts" as Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings, where I thought it
was computer built because it looked artificially perfect), the emerald lakes, snow fields and finally a
scenic view when staying at Ketehai hut. The second day to Waihohonu
hut is more like desert walking: sandy, stony, looks more like moon
landscape (well, if it does not rain like hell). A class of high school
kids and their teachers entertained us well during the evening in the
hut :-) The third and last day felt like walking in the Swedish
mountains to us (including the very Swedish weather!).
If you decide to spend the three or four days on the northern circuit,
or even more and do the southern loop as well, instead of quickly
rushing over the crossing, note that you potentially have to wait for
good weather (necessary for the alpine part). This might move your
travel schedule a bit. We were extremely lucky: arrived to Taupo, purchased the
permit, bought some stuff to eat and went to walk. For the equipment,
you need, apart from clothing for warm/cold/rain, good boots, food,
bottle, sleeping bag, cup/silverware/pots. Stove and gas will be in
the huts, to purify the water felt superfluous. Better double check
this information with the DOC before starting off.
The first out of four tracks on the south island. Located in Fjordland
national park, it is relatively new. It offers
three days of superb hiking along the coast. It starts and end on a
nice sand beach and always offers views to wards the sea, and even to
Steward island. The track is privately run, the tracks are in good
condition and the huts extremely well serviced. Kitchen offers stove
and pots, porridge for breakfast is included. Hence you only need
what you wear plus gain-gear, medium boots, food,
bottle and a sleeping bag. Reservations can be made via the trust office, they also reserve the
night before the tour at the Rarakau Lodge or "in town". Don't expect
that you can fix terribly much in Tuatapere - its just the road and
some houses glued to it. Very nice and calm.
OK, let's get started then. Day one goes straight up to the ridge and
then continues to the first hut, Okaka hut. This is the only time the
track goes uphill. The hut up on the ridge offer a nice terrace to sit
and watch the amazing landscape. Be aware of the Keas (mountain
parrots) that can be very funny but tend to hack your shoes or feet
(autsch...) or steal you equipment in an unattended second. So always
lock the door to your room. Closing the zipper of a bag is not
sufficient, since thy can open it. But otherwise, nice and beautiful
birds :-) At sunset, you should not miss to go up the top (just
10minutes) and watch the sun making sea, mountains and forest red.
Well, since day one was concerned with going up and this is a
round-trip, then you should go down some time!? You do this on day two
- all the way down to the beach and then continuing a bit more to Port
Craig village, crossing some viaducts (see left) and following a
tramway (a bit nasty to walk). Walking poles are not a bad idea for
this portion of the walk... The evening is then easily spend
strolling around in what's left of Port Craig (see right), a village
that has been set up by a timber company but abandoned before
operation due to a economic depression.
Day three is the easily spent walking back to the start, you can
choose between beach or forest walk. The walk is rather short and we
managed to say good-by to "The Hump" and Tuatapere and drive on to Te
Anau in one day without any stress. All in all, the trip gave superb
views and a change between alpine and beach scenery, depending just on
where you point your head. It also seemed rather empty, since it is
not that well known and not mentioned in every guidebook - but this
will change with this website, I guess :-)
Having spent wonderful days on the Tongariro and the Hump (yes, and
some days in the car in between), we went on to Te Anau, from where all
the other famous hikes in Fjordland can be reached easily. The four
day Kepler track was only the start, wow, and what for a start! Since
it was beginning of the season, it was pretty easy to get the permit
for the Kepler. The track is restricted to 40 walkers or so, but was
not even half booked when we went. For the equipment see the Tongariro
section above, but DOC in Te Anau will give you a checklist along with
your permit. Originally Kepler track was opened to take loads of
people away from Milford track, but -be assured- it never feels like
that, not one single second. It combines beach, alpine & rainforest in
four beautiful days, only the setup of the path sometimes feels
artificial (to combine nice spots), and this is beacuse the setup
is artificial, i.e. does not follor animal paths or old Maori
routes.
Day one starts conveniently off in at the Te Anau shores, no bus, just
have breakfast and start right away. Follow the shores of lake Te Anau
and have a rest on the beach before going up to Luxmore hut (to get
warm). The hut awaits you just when you come out of the forest, offers
an amazing view and the warden gave us a nice tour round the hut to
explain history of building the track, fauna and flora. Don't miss to
climb Mt Luxmoore this evening - you might regret if you have foul
weather the next day and no sight at all. Another spot to visit are
the caves close to the hut.
Day two then is the alpine day, where you sing and dance on the ridge
towards Iris Burn hut, looking at south fjord on your right and the
Jackson peaks on your left. Really amazing. But only in good weather,
otherwise Frank Sinatra must stay in the hut and sing and dance there
(on the table). Ask the warden for the weather report before
leaving. The path virtually "steps" down to Iris Burn hut, quite
steep. There is a waterfall to visit close to the hut; nice, but no
Gullfoss. Anyway, take a evening walk there. At the hut you might have
the opportunity to test your insect repellent - many little black
friends there.
Day three the takes you to Moturau hut, where I chose to stay for the
night. If you have to cut out time, you could proceed to the bus stop
(one hour or so from here). But the next day as a walking day back to
Te Anau is a quite rewarding one through the forest. But be warned: if
you did not like the little black friends at Iris Burn hut, you will
not like their relatives here either. You will pass another Lord of
the Rings setting between Iris Burn and Moturau: the forest where
Merry and Pippin convince the Ents to enter the war (book 2, chapter 4).
After the Kepler we did the Milford, see separate page. Because of early
booking of the Milford we were forced to group the other track around
it. The idea for the remaining days then was to combine
Greenstone-Caples-Routeburn. At that time, Routeburn was still
closed because of avalanche warnings at that time. So that choice was
easy... You go by bus from Te Anau to The Divide and then loop through
both tracks (this is easier from logistics point of view than doing it
via Queenstown and lake Wakatipu). It takes three days to do the two
of them without too much of a hurry, including transportation from/to
Te Anau. Sleep at Sly Burn and Upper Caples huts and buy tickets for
them in advance. The climb on the last day is quite steep up and down,
and maybe more pleasant in the direction Upper Caples hut to The
Divide (because of huge stairs on the western side of the ridge). In
terms of equipment, bring stove, fuel and pots, since there are none
in the huts. Water purification is also a must (talking with some
experience, especially from Sly Burn hut...), warden usually commute
between the huts, so expect to meet none if you need to and to meet
one if you don't :-)
Check also the Milford Track or return to the NZ main page.