outdoor @ wolfgang-reinelt.de
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Patagonia 2002/2003
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Finally, Patagonia the dream of all outdour people and regular
guest in the top spots of "world's best trek" ranking lists. So, one
should go there? YES, one should! The place to go travel by plane is
Rio Gallegos (Argentina) or Puerto Natales (Chile). Then take to bus
to the places you like: Torres del Paine, Calafate etc. Remember that
you must not take any fresh food across the border (customs will
check). In the case that you have a stop-over in Buenos Aires and I
should recommend a place to stay there, Gran Hotel Hispano is
nice&clean, reasonably cheap, english speaking and located quite
central at Av de Mayo.
Once you made it down there, it's just enjoying the
nature. Yes, it is quite full some times, which also means that
going alone is no problem since you always meet people to hook up
with. Besides, I really never felt unsafe at those places. For travel
details there are plenty of homepages or books around (see below), we
did well using Lonley Planet. The known trekking bases are well
equipped, for instance getting some shellite for the stove is no
problem at all. In Puerto Natales or Calafate it is also possible to
buy some equiment. A sleeping bag in that you feel comfortable at 5
deg celsius below zero is good to have, along with a strom-proven
tent. Although the Patagonian wind is not as impressive as its
rumours, Scandinavian winds can impress as least as much, but still:
it can be very windy. Warm clothes, hat and gloves should also be in
you pack. But, you could get started. We spend roughly five weeks
there (which is quite a lot I think), the only annoying thing being
that you meet quite some people on "around the world in one year" or
"southamerica on six months" trip. Those guys always felt sorry with
us " ooooh, only five weeks". But it pays off to go there for five
weeks (only :-), like this:
- 2002-12-27 to 29: Plane to Buenos Aires (overnight
stay there).
Continuation flight to Rio Gallegos (Argentine east
coast).
Bus to Puerto Natales (with change of bus in El Turbio)
- 2002-12-30 to 2003-01-07: Bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
National Park.
Torres del Paine circuit (see
seperate page).
Bus back to Puerto Natales
- 2003-01-08: Bus from Puerto Natales to El Calafate (day trip)
- 2003-01-10 to 17: Bus to El Chalten.
Fitz Roy &
Cerro Torre Lookout (see
seperate page).
Bus back to El Calafate.
- 2003-01-18 to 22: Several day trips for iceberg watching
(see seperate page).
- 2003-01-23: Flight from El Calafate to Buenos Aires.
- 2003-01-24 to 25: Flight from Buenos Aires back home.
Stuff to read:
- Clem Lindenmayer: Trekking in the Patagonian
Andes. Lonely Planet Publications. 2nd ed, February 1998. -
Gives you all the information needed for walking ang getting
around there. Be careful with the prices quoted there since south
american countries have very vivid currencies.
- Bruce Chatwin: In Patagonia. Vintage, 1998. Not really for
practical information, but nice to get warm with the landscape,
either at home, during the flight or already on the way.
- B.F. Bourne: The Captive in Patagonia. Or: Life among the
Giants. Zagier & Urruty, 2002.
- W.H. Hudson, C.M.Z.S.: Idle Days In Patagonia. London: Chapman & Hall,
1893. Reprint by: El Calafate Editores, Buenos Aires, 2000.
- E. Shackleton: South, the Endurance Expedition. Zagier & Urruty,
2002. A little bit off-topic, I admit. Nevertheless, the last
three books in this list give nice reading that is somewhat
related to Patagonia.
Check the Torres del Paine
Circuit or
the Los Glaciares NP Trip.
Last updated Tue Jan 6 22:16:36 2004 by Wolfgang Reinelt
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